Kiln takes its name from the oven at the center of its open kitchen, which is surrounded by communal wooden slabs that seat around 10 diners.

The ambience and decor is pared-back (design company 1616/Arita is responsible for renovating the building and making the tableware) and the staff are friendly and accommodating.

There's a set menu at dinner (¥5,800) as well as a la carte options, but I visited for Kiln's lunchtime burgers.

The menu is considerable, and there's plenty on there to appeal and upset — especially with its wagyu burger.

In a recent pompous-sounding burger manifesto, chef and author David Chang dismissed the wagyu burger, bemoaning its high fat content and calling it the "dumbest burger in the world."

Kiln's version is made of 100 percent beef dry-aged for 40 days. It tastes delightful, with the right balance of meat and fat. While it's possibly a little overcooked for Chang's liking, I'm sure the staff could cook it to your preference. The wagyu burger comes with tomato, lettuce and potato wedges, with relish, ketchup and mustard served on the side. For vegetarians there's an avocado-cheese burger and a chickpea-falafel burger.

Kiln's location, decor and burgers make it well worth stopping by.