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RESTAURANTS

Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 12, 2000
Cardenas Charcoal Grill: Californian fare grilled to perfection
Fumihiro Nakamura does not affect the expansive personality and well-studied bonhomie of a born restaurateur in the classic European mold. Nor does he in any way exude the slick professionalism and marketing savvy of the streetwise MBAs who scheme up and preside over flash designer eateries for cash-flush...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 12, 2000
Californian fare grilled to perfection
Fumihiro Nakamura does not affect the expansive personality and well-studied bonhomie of a born restaurateur in the classic European mold. Nor does he in any way exude the slick professionalism and marketing savvy of the streetwise MBAs who scheme up and preside over flash designer eateries for cash-flush...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 28, 2000
Trendy slurping in Azabu-Juban
All things must pass -- especially, it seems, the good stuff. So a final farewell, then, to the old Azabu-Juban we used to know and love, with its funky, friendly mom 'n' pop stores, cheap nomiya and overpriced wine bars, and its faintly musty smells of onsen and kimchi.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 14, 2000
Hannibal: Tunisian flavors in Shin-Okubo
Don't roll up at Hannibal with ideas about mysterious Middle Eastern souks, exotic belly dancers or desert caravansaries. Nor should you expect ancient classical motifs and provender of Punic proportions. Just forget you ever saw the movie "Casablanca" (and don't even mention "The Silence of the Lambs")....
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 14, 2000
Tunisian flavors in Shin-Okubo
Don't roll up at Hannibal with ideas about mysterious Middle Eastern souks, exotic belly dancers or desert caravansaries. Nor should you expect ancient classical motifs and provender of Punic proportions. Just forget you ever saw the movie "Casablanca" (and don't even mention "The Silence of the Lambs")....
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 24, 2000
Al fresco evenings in Heisei style
Just when you feel it's safe to venture out of the air conditioning to enjoy a drink or three in the mellow evening air of the late summer, that's about the time most beer gardens are starting to think about shutting down for the year.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 10, 2000
Spicing up life on the Shonan coast
This is hardly the most obvious name for an Indian restaurant. It started life some four years ago as a friendly little Bengal-accented cafe-restaurant in the back streets on the other side of the station, quickly making a name for itself as a reliable spot for authentic Indian cooking. Then three months...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 27, 2000
Obana: Heat got you down? Eel thyself
Obana is certainly not the most illustrious of Tokyo's unagi restaurants. How could it be when most of the flash money lies west of the Ginza, not up in blue-collar Arakawa-ku? But there are plenty of people, especially those of humbler birth, who will go to the grave swearing by the name of their ancestors...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 13, 2000
Giang's, Cyclo: Far away, yet so close to Hanoi
It's getting to be that time of year when it feels as if this part of Japan has been towed down to Southeast Asia and temporarily moored somewhere in the Mekong Delta. If only that were so. For us it's not the muggy weather and tropical downpours that we complain about -- it's the dearth of creative,...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 8, 2000
Fresh innovations at home in Tsukiji
Urban dining myth number one: The closer you eat to Tsukiji, the better quality the fish must be.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 25, 2000
On a culinary cruise in Akasaka
We have numerous restaurants which bear the name of their chefs, owners or svengalis. But Denis Allemand is perhaps the first to proudly boast the name of the man responsible for its interior design -- whose main work in Japan up to now has been producing deli-diners in airport departure lobbies for...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 11, 2000
French with a difference
We have no shortage of bargain-basement French-accented bistros scattered around the metropolis. But for my money, Tete-a-tete is the cream of the current crop. I could reel off about a dozen cogent reasons why I rate this little place so highly. But there's only one that you really need to know -- it...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 27, 2000
Ohmatsuya: Down on the farm, just off the Ginza
You could call Ohmatsuya rustic -- but only in the most Ginza sense of the word. It sits just one floor above the brand-name bustle of the street, inside a modern multistory building little different from any others occupying that premium patch of real estate. Step inside, however, and you could have...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 13, 2000
Bangkok's never too far away
You can't get authentic Thai food in Tokyo south of Kabukicho -- at least that's what the conventional wisdom would have us believe. Indeed, as with any such sweeping generalization, there's a kernel of truth to it -- as long as what you're after is hawker food that's rough but ever ready, gentle on...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 23, 1999
The best of the rest(aurants) of 1999
Before our memory cells get erased by the momentous celebrations and the post-millennial hangover, let's pause for a moment to consider some of the many places we visited and enjoyed in 1999 but which, for whatever reason, never made it into print.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 9, 1999
Good-time dining for the new year
It's the time of year for that annual conundrum: Where to go for that end of year celebration. It really does have to be something European, with wine and a soft, jazzy backing track. You want something with style, but definitely not too formal; a place with a buzz, but not too well known; with good...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 11, 1999
No smoke gets in your eyes here
It is not so much ironic as inevitable that the shichirin -- the basic, mass-produced, charcoal-fired clay stove so widely used in Japan in the austere postwar reconstruction days -- has now been reinvented as the favorite cooking accessory for recession- chic dining out.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 14, 1999
Food dilettantes need not apply
There are so many plants around the entrance of A Tes Souhaits you'd be forgiven for thinking this is one of those feminine restaurants where flowers and fancy frills take precedence over the food. The sight of the sous-chef squatting by the kitchen door plucking a wild fowl should disillusion you of...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 23, 1999
Kinoji: A sanctuary of simple elegance
Kinoji lies well off the beaten track, on an unremarkable stretch of a nondescript avenue. But that only makes it easier to spot the bold, contemporary lines of the five-story architects' building, in which Kinoji occupies the basement level.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 9, 1999
Taverna Rondino: Kamakura's most excellent cucina
Now that summer is finally past its punishing prime, it's time for the beach. September is the finest season down on the Shonan waterfront: The sun and water are still plenty warm enough; the teenybopper crowds have dissipated; and the rip-off beach houses have packed up and gone, taking their dubious...

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