A half-hour's drive north of Seoul, along a highway lined with barbed wire, lie two shopping malls the size of several stadiums, a stone's throw from the world's most militarized border.
The malls are in the city of Paju, gateway to the U.N. truce village of Panmunjom, where military officers from the combatants of the 1950-53 Korean war discuss armistice matters — when the two sides are on speaking terms, which they aren't these days.
"Fairy tales come true in Paju," is the advertising lure from the Korean Tourism Board.
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