NAHA, Okinawa Pref. -- Business is slack along Heiwa Dori (Peace Street), one in a maze of narrow streets that make up Machigwa, Naha's central market.

At one store, a young girl stares longingly at a red dress prominently displayed out front. It's an unremarkable garment; the badges stitched on the sleeves and front, however, stand out: "U.S. AIR FORCE"

"Military garb -- it's our biggest seller," the store's proprietor said. "That's how mainland Japanese think of us: 'Okinawa equals American bases.' That's what they come here for," she added.