Sushi and pizza, lists and rankings, sparkling new multilevel megacomplexes, peak tourism and the death rattle of old-school izakaya taverns: Just another year of dining out in Tokyo.

With inbound tourism numbers again setting new records in 2024, restaurateurs have responded with a burst of new openings to accommodate all the visitors. By the reckoning of one trade magazine, more than 200 sushi restaurants have opened this year alone.

One newcomer that has stood out from the pack is Sushi Oya, an elegant location discreetly tucked away off the main street of Kagurazaka, Shinjuku Ward. Chef Yoji Oya is an alumnus of the legendary Sushi Yoshitake in Tokyo’s Ginza district and brings all the requisite high-end skills, plus those vital connections with the best seafood wholesalers at the Toyosu Market. Having grown up in the United States, Oya boasts an international savoir faire, fluent English and years’ experience of working in Hong Kong. More important still, his restaurant — seven seats at the counter and six more in a private room — is designed with beautiful understatement.