Last month, standing in a sunny Manhattan studio among racks of clothes, Clare Waight Keller was back in her element. The British fashion designer, perhaps best known as the designer of Meghan Markle’s wedding gown, had arrived from London to reveal her latest Uniqlo: C capsule collection and to announce her role as that Japanese clothing brand’s new creative director.

At a moment when luxury fashion is trending toward an economic downturn, Waight Keller is betting on a brand known for affordable, high-quality layers that are wardrobe staples.

Waight Keller wore an all-gray ensemble of straight-leg trousers and a wool knit blazer from Uniqlo. As she walked the news media through her capsule collection, a concise lineup of $25 cashmere-blend knits in soft shades of loden and moss and $60 pants in suiting fabric, bolstered this time with Uniqlo: C’s first menswear capsule, her ease reflected her long career in the industry.