Retailers often neglect to mention that the liquid pickled products are packaged in can be as valuable and flavorful as the pickles themselves.

Banh mi are a Vietnamese-style sandwich incorporating light and fresh southeast Asian greens and herbs and French baguette. You can argue what element turns a run-of-the-mill sandwich into a rich and refreshing banh mi, but for me, it’s the pickles.

In this recipe, we use Japanese beni shōga (ginger pickled in plum vinegar), the sort you might add atop okonomiyaki, plus its brine to add a punchy twist. If you prefer subtler color and flavors, swap in some gari (ginger), as you might find alongside sushi.