Uniqlo, the Japanese retail behemoth owned by Fast Retailing, takes in roughly $2.5 billion (¥355.6 billion) in annual profits and has more than 2,500 stores globally, including 61 in the United States. It is known for its smart, affordable basics — cashmere and merino sweaters, Ultra Light Down jackets and tailoring — that are conservative and classic, yet hip to the times. The same description applies to Uniqlo’s robust fashion collaboration machine.

The practice of mass brands collaborating with runway designers is now ubiquitous — and mutually beneficial. The financial powerhouses get the imprimatur of chic, and haute designers get a giant marketing budget with which to reach new customers.

Typically, the big brands place their bets on designers with the household-name fame and flash of a Karl Lagerfeld or Versace. But Uniqlo has favored more quiet, studious members of luxury’s head-of-the-class. Jil Sander, JW Anderson and Lemaire were all tapped by Uniqlo for successful collaborations that lasted several years, not just a season.