As the train rounds a bend in the deepening greenery of Saitama Prefecture, chef Hiroshi Tsubouchi puts the finishing touches on his main dish: Akagi beef tagliata in a Chichibu red wine sauce accented by a medley of crookneck squash, red radish and purple dragon carrot — all harvested that morning from his own farm.
The 52 Seats of Happiness train, a traveling restaurant on the Seibu train line heading toward Chichibu Station, is not Tsubouchi’s usual venue, but then again, Tsubouchi is no usual chef. As the passengers — participants on a special Ichiro’s Malt whisky tour — tuck into their entrees and whisky pairings, the chef extends a welcome in his typical warm and gentle demeanor.
When Tsubouchi isn’t cooking aboard rolling stock, you can usually find him at Cucina Salve in Chichibu. Opened in 2019, his restaurant has earned a collection of both domestic and international accolades, including a 2022 two-toque rating from Gault et Millau, awarded to establishments with a “new take on cuisine.”
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