“When I die, I would like to come back as an onigiri.”

With these words, Yumiko Ukon, the owner of rice ball specialist shop Onigiri Bongo in Tokyo’s Otsuka neighborhood, lowered the sheet of paper from which she was reading her speech to a captive audience and took a bow. A few hours later, as Japan’s first-ever Onigiri Summit was winding down, I was granted a five-minute audience with Ukon.

“You mentioned in your speech that you’d like to be reborn as a rice ball,” I said. “What flavor?”