Shinichiro Takagi is proactively shaping the future of Japanese fine dining.
On Aug. 21, the second-generation owner of two-Michelin-starred Zeniya in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, will take four talented high school students, winners of the All Japan High School Students Washoku Grand Prix, to New York, where they will stage at two of the city’s top restaurants: Danny Meyer’s one-starred Gramercy Tavern and two-starred Gabriel Kreuther.
It’s a project Takagi believes will pay dividends for the next generation of Japan’s fine-dining stars.
“Many students do not believe they can reach Michelin-starred restaurants,” Takagi tells The Japan Times, “but I want to let them know it is possible.”
Passionate about nurturing young culinary talent, Takagi, 54, has also volunteered in elementary schools and gave lessons on food.
“The motivation was not about teaching students to be chefs but to cultivate a genuine appreciation for food,” he says. “By inspiring deeper exploration and reflection, we can foster a thriving culinary ecosystem — and I think this is great for the industry. We need not only talented chefs but also knowledgeable sommeliers, attentive service staff and appreciative customers.”
Takagi is a seasoned figure in Japan’s fine dining scene. An alumnus of Kyoto Kitcho, Japan’s leading institution for kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine), he has honed his expertise in classical culinary techniques and led Zeniya and its menu showcasing the region’s specialty Kaga cuisine to Michelin acclaim. Last August, Takagi launched Zeniya’s first international outpost at the Shangri-La hotel in Singapore. Additionally, he serves as a Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador and Executive Chef at Taka-An, a restaurant in the Aman Kyoto resort. Takagi is also preparing to launch a casual restaurant in the U.S. state of Arkansas next year.
Takagi’s extensive international experience equips him with a unique vantage point on the future of fine dining both within and beyond Japan.
Often cited as the world’s best restaurant, Noma will be serving its last regular diners in the winter of 2024. In your opinion, is this the beginning of the end for the world’s great fine-dining restaurants?
It is not easy to make money in fine dining due to high costs. But restaurants like El Bulli and Noma represent unique business models, particularly in terms of staffing. With kitchen crews often matching the number of guests, these establishments heavily rely on a stagiaire system where many chefs work without pay. While this significantly reduces labor costs, the demanding nature of kitchen work could lead to legal challenges if unpaid young chefs raise complaints.
But renowned French restaurants such as those of Alain Ducasse and Michel Troisgros typically employ fewer stagiaires. So while it is not easy to make money in fine dining, it is not true that fine dining does not make money.
What similarities and differences have you observed between the fine-dining landscapes of Japan and other international food capitals?
Focusing on Japanese cuisine, you would observe that high-end Japanese restaurants predominantly fall into two categories: counter seating and private rooms. Ryōtei, the traditional private dining establishment, historically catered to corporate functions, but the frequency of such use has been decreasing and so has the number of ryōtei restaurants. In contrast, counter-style ryōtei, often featuring one or two chefs serving small groups, have surged in popularity as they require relatively low initial investment and labor costs.
For myself as a second-generation chef, most of the existing infrastructure came from my father’s heritage when he set up Zeniya Kanazawa in 1970. While I invest in tableware and artwork, these expenses are relatively modest. Perhaps that is why I can keep the restaurant going.
What are the main challenges confronting the fine-dining sector in Japan?
Human resource shortages are already evident. This is compounded by escalating costs for food, electricity and labor. Traditional business models that fail to generate adequate profits will not be able to continue.
And the situation is further complicated by natural disasters.
The impact brought on by natural disasters is huge. I witnessed firsthand the devastating geographic changes wrought by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami when I volunteered in Ishinomaki. The 2024 Noto earthquake further underscored this reality. Wajima's landscape was dramatically altered within seconds, with the ground rising by four meters. The seaport could no longer be used, and that dealt a crippling blow to the fishing community, forcing many in the trade and their children to leave the industry.
Global climate change poses a growing threat to Japan's seafood-centric cuisine. Rising ocean temperatures have caused fish species, such as fugu, to migrate northward. Once predominantly found in southern Japan, they are increasingly found in Hokkaido. Overfishing is also a critical issue. Japan imposes strict regulations on bluefin tuna fishing during specific periods, which are observed by its fishing industry, but foreign fishing boats often disregard these regulations, depleting fish stocks.
What are the most notable changes the Japanese culinary landscape has observed in recent years?
The rise of female chefs is remarkable and will probably continue to increase, so it is important to provide an environment where women can work comfortably.
Evolving consumer preferences, lifestyles and business practices will change the way Japanese restaurants have been used in the past, and the ryōtei culture will face a crisis. In fact, the number of Japanese restaurants with private rooms will increasingly decrease as the value of such rooms becomes less and less.
Since the trend of more non-Japanese guests than ever before will not change, it can be considered that the market has expanded as a result, and this should be seen as a business opportunity.
News reports say international tourists spent more than ¥5 trillion (about $34 billion) in Japan last year, and over a third of that was spent on food and drink. Is that surprising?
In the late 1990s, over at Zeniya Kanazawa, we only had a few guests per month who were foreigners, but now more than 30% of our guests come from outside of Japan.
Helped by the attractiveness of the yen, more people are coming to Japan. This is especially true for starred restaurants in Tokyo, which are increasingly relying on foreigners for business. When tourists arrive, they explore a wide range of culinary options beyond fine dining and gain a deeper appreciation for Japanese cuisine.
Meanwhile, international visitors are increasingly drawn to kaiseki as a means to explore Japan's gastronomic heritage. While kaiseki is a revered tradition, it appeals to a relatively small segment of the Japanese population, perhaps only 30% to 40%. The Japanese do not have the patience to spend so many hours at the dining table.
How can Japan’s gastronomic world better prepare itself for a global audience?
The way to improve is to keep changing, developing and moving with time. It will be necessary to adapt the presentation of the cuisine to a comfortable dining environment for non-Japanese.
At Zeniya Kanazawa, we have a relatively traditional form (counter and private rooms), but Taka-An in Aman Kyoto has only tables and a counter, with no tokonoma (alcove) or hanging scrolls in its interior design.
As foreign diners become more sophisticated, we observe how, besides appreciating Japanese cuisine, there is a desire to delve deeper into the cultural aspects. Providing insights into tableware, hanging scrolls and ikebana is essential for elevating the dining experience. In the case of traditional-style private rooms like Zeniya, explaining the symbolism and artistry behind these elements can enrich guests’ understanding.
Could this pose more of a challenge for Japanese chefs than cooking?
Acquisition of English is essential to explain the concept of cuisine that is being served. But simply telling customers about the names of ingredients in English is not enough to give them a deep understanding or inspiration.
Cultivating a deeper appreciation for our cuisine among our patrons is essential. By enhancing their understanding of our culinary philosophy, we elevate our brand and, as a result, we would be better able to attract future talent.
Although preserving traditional forms and challenging new forms may seem to be in different directions, they are synonymous in preserving Japanese culinary culture for the next generation. What is important in the process of preservation is that guests from all over the world find value in Japanese cuisine and become powerful collaborators and customers.
Without a global customer base, long-term sustainability within the Japanese market alone becomes increasingly challenging. Therefore, recognizing the value of both traditional and contemporary approaches, as exemplified by Zeniya and Taka-An, is crucial for attracting and retaining a diverse clientele.
What insights have you gained about Japanese cuisine through your extensive culinary exchanges?
When I was in the States as a student in the 1980s, my peers were astonished by the Japanese custom of consuming raw fish. Fast forward a few decades and sushi has become a global phenomenon, albeit often with soft shell crab and avocado. I saw for myself how food localized and became popular. A few months ago, I was in Cape Town for a pop-up and ramen was already localized there.
Japanese cuisine has been designated by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage, and food has become another important platform for Japanese culture. As a chef, my mission is not only to showcase Japanese cuisine at its finest but also to deepen the global understanding of Japanese culture through authentic dining experiences.
Worldwide, sushi, tempura and ramen have achieved widespread popularity, but high-quality kaiseki are few and far in between. As I see it, kaiseki is the next big thing Japan can share with the world.
What is the unique appeal of kaiseki cuisine?
To me, kaiseki is a total art form, akin to opera, whereas sushi and ramen restaurants can be compared to solo performances. Appreciating kaiseki requires a cultivated palate and a deeper exploration of its intricacies. From meticulous ingredient selection and collaboration with producers to the artistry of presentation, kaiseki offers a profound immersion into Japanese culture.
Within a kaiseki course, the adjustments do not stop. That is why you would not see a menu on the table, whether it is at Zeniya Kanazawa or Taka-An in Aman Kyoto.