Tokyo does not lack for good tonkatsu. There are very few neighborhoods that do not boast a few reliable purveyors of the breaded, deep-fried cutlets, all crisp on the outside and — fingers crossed — oozing juicy, porcine goodness from the interior.
Most are humble operations that cater to customers who demand maximum meat for their money. A select few take themselves more seriously, offering high-end cuts, wine lists and other gourmet refinements. Most satisfying of all, though, are those that follow the middle path of unpretentious quality — the way Tonkatsu Nanaido does it.
From the cash-only ticket machine at the door to the sparkling-clean, no-frills decor and compact seating, Nanaido has the utilitarian feel of a local lunch counter. And that’s exactly what it is. Since opening on a quiet side street in the Jingumae district at the tail end of 2018, it has only ever opened for three hours a day.
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