When I visit Kitakata, Fukushima Prefecture, in March, a thick layer of snow blankets the rooftops, but the sunny and warm afternoon signals the start of spring and the coming of a unique, seasonal delight: the first sip of freshly pressed sake.
At Yumegokoro Shuzo, Nobuo Shoji walks me through his brewing facility to a room occupied by an automatic filter press that resembles a massive accordion. He lifts the lid on a tank of just-pressed Naraman Junmai sake, and the fragrance of melon fills the air. The brew has traces of carbonation for a slight fizz and a faint yellow-green hue, which will fade as the sake matures. Notes of ripe melon and candied green apple unfurl across the palate, followed by a jolt of acidity and astringency before the dry finish.
Savoring such fresh sake at the source is a special experience that Shoji, the sixth-generation president of Yumegokoro Shuzo, hopes to share with many more guests in the near future.