Uncork the Champagne, fill your glasses and raise a toast. At last, there’s something to celebrate — and it’s not just the recent lifting of the ban on alcohol in restaurants. After a long, tortuous gestation, and a considerable drum beat of anticipation, Sezanne has finally opened its doors.

Any new high-end French restaurant in Tokyo is big news among the city’s well-heeled gastronomes. But Sezanne’s official unveiling on July 1 inside the plush Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi means much more than just the birth of a fine-dining venue. It signals the arrival of a young chef of considerable accomplishment.

Daniel Calvert has worked in restaurants for more than half his life. Raised in southeast England, he started his career in London (including at the two-Michelin-star Pied a Terre), rising through the ranks in New York (Per Se; three stars) and then Paris (Epicure at Le Bristol; also three stars). But it was his five-year tenure in Hong Kong at Belon — leading the neo-Parisian bistro to fourth place on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list and gaining a Michelin star of his own — that really put his name on the map.