Anyone with a garden knows that when Japanese shiso (Perilla frutescens var. crispa) grows, it really grows. But having an abundance of shiso is the best kind of problem: Just make yourself a batch of green goddess dressing.
Purportedly created by a chef in 1920s San Francisco to commemorate a play of the same name, green goddess dressing is traditionally made by blending mayonnaise, sour cream, parsley, chives, scallions and tarragon into a thick, pale green sauce. Its popularity has waxed and waned throughout the 20th century, but the dressing has come back into vogue in the last few years.
The dressing is incredibly flexible because you can play around with any combination of mixed herbs or leafy greens you like. Beyond shiso, mint, basil, coriander, Italian parsley, mizuna (mustard greens) and even wilting salad greens work well. Ideally, the dressing will be punchy and herbaceous.
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