The first meal of the year is always important. When it's the first of the decade, though, it surely takes on even weightier significance. So what's it to be? Fine dining or casual? Traditional or contemporary? Homegrown Japanese, something from overseas or perhaps some nifty fusion? Wait, don't overthink it. Just get yourself over to Taishu Sakaba Raincolor (TSR).

Why? For one thing, it entails heading out to Gakugei-daigaku, which is always a good idea. Far enough from the city center to deter casual visitors, it still has a neighborhood feel and a demographic that supports small, independent shops, bars and restaurants. For another, after all the lights, tinsel and budgetary outlays of the holiday period, now is the time for simpler, low-rise, down-home enjoyments.

You'd hardly expect anything else at a self-styled taishū sakaba ("public tavern"). The term is a throwback to earlier times before the word izakaya gained widespread currency, and evokes images of earthy, belly-up-to-the-bar hostelries where the sake is rough and the food cheap. TSR takes this no-frills, old-school ethos and brings it bang up to date.