When it comes to sushi, Tokyo is spoiled for choice. Whether traditional or contemporary, high-end, local or no-frills market counter, few enjoy a more rarefied setting or more envious vista than Sushi Shin by Miyakawa, up on the 38th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo.

This is the first venture in the capital for Hokkaido-based sushi master Masaaki Miyakawa, whose self-named restaurant in Sapporo boasts three Michelin stars. Lunch or dinner, the omakase (chef's choice) menu opens with a series of appetizers — not just sashimi but dishes such as uni chawanmushi (savory egg custard with sea urchin), abalone served in its own liver sauce, and seasonal items such as summer Hanasaki crab.

These are followed by a dozen or so pieces of nigiri sushi. The seafood is superb, much of it carefully aged and matched with shari rice prepared in Miyakawa's trademark style, still warm and vinegared with a light hand.

Miyakawa himself is not present. The man in charge is his lieutenant, Kazuo Ogura, who has worked alongside him for many years. All is as polished and professional as you'd expect, although after a couple of hours at Ogura's handsome, 350-year-old hinoki (cypress) counter, the canned hotel-lobby music does start to grate on the ears.

Lunch menu from ¥18,000, dinner from ¥28,000; English menu; English spoken