Ever since he was a young chef in his early 20s, Michimasa Nakamura has wanted to shake things up in the world of sushi.
Although he cherished its craftsmanship and traditions, he felt constrained by the field's conservative way of thinking, especially in Japan, where trainees are taught to follow rules without question.
In 2009, at the age of 30, Nakamura struck out on his own, opening Sushi Shin in Tokyo's Shirokane neighborhood and, in doing so, becoming one of the city's youngest sushi owner-chefs. There, he began experimenting with new techniques and incorporating subtle flavors — a dab of yuzu koshō (a condiment made with yuzu citrus, chili pepper and salt), a touch of ume (plum) paste or pickled mustard seeds — that gave his style of bite-sized nigiri sushi a modern feel. But he still wanted to "explore other dimensions" and "expand the potential of sushi."