Though Izu's east coast may be more easily accessible from Tokyo, there is a reward in store for those who venture west. The final section of the road into Toi, a resort town on the western coast of the Izu Peninsula, starts at the top of a jagged mountain range behind the town. As you make the descent toward the coast, the view of the vast, glittering expanse of Suruga Bay is breathtaking. It's an auspicious start to my stay at a very special bed and breakfast.

La Posada is a cozy, eight-room B&B run by the Yamaguchi family, who spent over 20 years living in Mexico City. In 1964, the Japanese Olympic Committee dispatched La Posada's founder, Tomoyoshi, to develop the sport of judo there. Tomoyoshi passed away last year, but he remains a towering figure in Mexican judo, famed for his ambidextrous style and vice-like grip: Mexico's national team selection tournament is named after him. Tomoyoshi's former students, many of whom found judo a refuge from deprivation and delinquency, now keep the family well-supplied with the essential ingredients that go into La Posada's authentic Mexican cuisine.

| NICK SINCLAIR