The old-school, low-rise district of Yanaka boasts tree-lined streets, temples aplenty, fresh air and a sense of connection with Tokyo's past that has long been paved over elsewhere. What it lacks — and this is a plus, not a minus — is a subway station, with the accompanying bright lights and commercial developments found in other areas of the city.

However, the area does have one very mellow, low-key focal point: Ueno Sakuragi Atari is a complex of three handsome, 80-year-old minka (traditional private residences) that have been converted into a community space. In the three years since it opened, Atari has become one of the essential stopping points in the area.

For most visitors, the primary attraction is the two-story timber-clad building closest to the street: Yanaka Beer Hall dispenses craft ales and lagers from the August Beer microbrewery, both on tap and in bottles, along with snacks and simple lunch platters. More than anything, though, it serves up ambience and atmosphere, a place to rest and rehydrate in retro style.