Nanaezushi, on Shichijo Street in Kyoto, occupies that middle ground between the gimmick and conveyor-belt joints and the high-end places where you can expect to pay ¥20,000 for an atmosphere that's often as much fun as a funeral, however good the sushi itself might be.

At Nanaezushi, most nights you can still grab a seat at the counter without a reservation and expect to eat sushi that is both deeply satisfying and reasonably priced. The nigiri sushi comes served on a geta, reminiscent of the old-school sandal of the same name, and prices range from ¥300-¥900 for servings of any specific item. The bulk of the menu is around the ¥300 mark, which is where we did most of our fishing.

Chef Uemura is a second-generation sushi chef; his father started the restaurant and it has a dated, well-worn feeling. A beautiful deep-blue naka-noren (interior curtain) embroidered with fish and crustaceans hangs over the counter. Running parallel to the counter are half a dozen tables. It's a small family-run establishment of the kind that are slowly growing scarce. Sadly, Uemura's brother, who also had a sushi restaurant less than a kilometer away, closed up shop late last year. Age and finding a replacement to learn his craft proved too much of a barrier to keep on going.