Last year, Suzuya celebrated its 70th anniversary, making it one of the oldest kissaten (traditional coffee shops) in Kyoto. To the best of my knowledge, only Salon de The Francois — which opened in the interwar period — pips it for longevity.

From outside, it's hard to discern how much has changed at Suzuya since it opened. Just right of the door is a small alcove where you can buy tobacco, which is still manned. Even though I was seated only a few meters away I could never fully make out who was in there. It's one of those mysteries unique to kissaten that are best left as mysteries.

As with any self-respecting kissaten, Suzuya has its theme: photography. Below the kitchen is a sign for a dark room, and the interior is taken up with art work; the centerpiece is a large painting of a reclining Venus, naked and coy. For photographers, there's much in this Showa Era (1926-89) cafe worthy of capturing.

Besides art, Suzuya's other specialty is curry. I ordered beef curry (¥1,250), which is served in the kind of silver jug that wouldn't be out of place at a banquet, as well as a big bowl of rice and salad on the side. The curry was a bit stodgy, but the coffee, made with Jamaican Blue Mountain beans, is just right. It's classic kissaten-style: mild with a strong hit of nostalgia.