These are tough times for the shōtengai, Japan's old-school shopping streets. The convenience of online shopping and mega-malls has lured shoppers away from the city's vintage arcades. However, the uniform glitz of a shopping center or an online store can never replace the buzz of a shōtengai — such as Osaka's Tengonakazaki-dori, sandwiched between Nakazakicho and Tenma stations — nor its eclectic lineup of stores and owners.
Wa Bistro Tsuna, which celebrated its first anniversary this month, is in good company on Tengonakazaki-dori. Right across the narrow street is a ramen shop that has droves of noodle-lovers lining up around the clock for its clam and miso ramen. Wa Bistro doesn't have that kind of following yet, but it was packed on a recent visit — no doubt helped by year-end revelers.
The layout inside is eclectic. You can get a seat at the bar downstairs, overlooking the kitchen, or head up the winding stairs to where there are tables and a traditional Japanese-style tatami room with sliding doors. This space may be at odds with the rest of the formulaic bistro-style restaurant, but Wa Bistro is a slightly unorthodox. It's a marriage of classic European and Japanese cuisines with a playlist that favors Bob Marley and Jimi Hendrix — although in the week before Christmas, Wham!'s "Last Christmas" was on heavy rotation.
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