I've been dreaming of a place that serves mouth-watering vegan food, with creations so divinely tasty, that whether you eat meat or not is inconsequential. A place where those unaccustomed to vegan food won't feel they're limiting themselves because there would be no sense of anything "missing." A place where one could relax and appreciate expertly crafted original cuisine.

Though there are as many flavor possibilities as there are culinary traditions, a cursory exposure to modern vegan cuisine in Japan might leave one assuming it's all brown rice and vegetable curry — falling reliably along an earthy, nutty flavor spectrum. I've been dreaming of a restaurant in Tokyo that offers more, and I've found it at Restaurant 8ablish (www.eightablish.com) in Tokyo's Omotesando neighborhood.

A recently opened creation from the owners of vegan mainstay Pure Cafe and the smaller 8ablish cafe-bakery in Gakugeidaigaku, Restaurant 8ablish creates complex Mediterranean-inspired dishes and, compared to the cafe and bakery, offers a full-fledged dining experience. The atmosphere is conducive to long wine-soaked conversations, and I felt immediately at ease in the dim dinner lighting. The server pleasantly informed me of the style of various plates and recommended the tempeh souvlaki, which included juicy tofu, whole mushrooms, succulent zucchini and red pepper with tzatziki sauce on the side.