I am almost certain that I wouldn't survive a day working under chef Noriyuki Hashinaga. I am, however, certain that I could eat his food every day.
He is an exacting boss. On a recent lunchtime visit, Hashinaga was joined at his eponymous restaurant by one other staff member, who occupied pretty much every role imaginable in the kitchen and restaurant — apart from head chef. The poor soul never stopped going, and when he did pause, Hashinaga wasn't long in lighting a fire under him.
This is a modestly sized restaurant, which is lucky for the server, who more than likely covers a half marathon in the course of a day's work. It is dominated by a counter with seating for eight and two tables at the back. And it was a full house when I dined there. Hashinaga's addition to the Michelin food bible notwithstanding, I imagine he's not short of patrons as he offers one of the most affordable, delicious and unstuffy kaiseki (traditional multi-course meals) lunch courses in Kyoto.
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