Although I frequently dine alone while reviewing, I'm rarely alone, in the true sense. Especially at kappō, or counter-style restaurants, where there's a miscellany of worthwhile distractions and on occasion small talk.

At Kagaman, the tables were turned, sort of. The counter area is small, in an otherwise large restaurant spread over a few floors, one of which contains a traditional tearoom. In any case the counter was booked during a recent lunchtime visit and I was, instead, escorted past the counter by maids in kimono to the back of the restaurant to dine alone. Then, oddly enough, either to hide the fact that I was alone or just insulate me, after placing my order two moveable screens were pushed toward my table forming a cubicle with the two walls. All that was missing was a "Do Not Disturb" sign, not that there was a soul around to bother me.

Chef and owner Hiro Saka opened Kagaman more than 30 years ago. Saka has been in the food business a long time having made the climb from a ship's galley to opening a string of restaurants in central Osaka. Kagaman, with its Michelin star, is the jewel in the crown. I went with one of the ordinary-priced lunches at just under ¥6,000. Be warned, however, the omakase courses (courses set by the chef) start at ¥15,000 for lunch and ¥20,000 for dinner.