It would be easy to breeze past the understated exterior of soba restaurant Takama without ever realizing what's inside, but that would be unfortunate — especially if you like soba. Michelin-starred Takama is located on the same street that leads into Tenjinbashisuji Shotengai, one of Japan's — if not Asia's — longest covered arcades, and home to all sorts of miscellany (and a fair share of junk). Takama, on the other hand, keeps its focus narrow, serving only two types of soba: The first is mori, regular-style soba made from marunuki flour, and the second is inaka, a more robust noodle made with hikigurumi (whole buckwheat flour). Both options are made with high-quality flour from Fukui Prefecture.

The dining area of Takama is about the size of a Japanese living room with just one main table — a beautiful chunk of yakusugi cedar that seats 10 diners — with a smaller table tucked in an alcove near the entrance. The simple furnishings and vases of flowers give Takama a homey feeling, complemented by unhurried staff who are all from the same family.

I didn't make a reservation on a recent visit, and arrived to find a line of half a dozen people ahead of me, well before the restaurant had opened. This is normal for Takama, as is the line of people waiting outside to take your place when you've finished eating.