Finding a new favorite izakaya tavern is always cause for celebration, especially if it happens to be on your way home. Better yet, if it offers good food and a great sake selection. Nurukan Sato Gotenyama Saryo ticks all of those boxes — just as long as "on your way home" involves passing through JR Shinagawa Station.

Nurukan Sato is certainly worth the detour. The wide frontage, bright, airy interior and cheerful atmosphere make it easy to drop in, whether you only have time for a quick snack or are ready to linger a while. Be warned — once you see the colorful array of sake bottles covering the entire wall by the entrance, you are likely to extend your visit.

This is not just the usual token nod to jizake (regional sake) that you find at most large izakaya. The people who run Nurukan Sato are serious about offering some of the best that are available. There are scores of small-scale breweries from around the country on the regular drinks list, plus a number of limited-edition brews that you need to ask about.