Highway FM is possibly the worst radio station ever, unless you like your music country and each song laced with messages of patriotism, a work hard, play hard mantra or neighborly love. Sometimes a bit too much love.

At Buff, a steak restaurant near Minami-morimachi, Highway FM is all you will hear — all the time. And it's loud.

You hear it on the approach to the restaurant, at the counter, in the toilet and long after you've left, it has crept into your brain. Bland looped music has that effect.