Very few Japanese restaurants in Tokyo can boast a view to rival that from Kazahana. Sitting 28 floors up in the Conrad Hotel, you gaze out over the centuries-old Hamarikyu garden on the waterfront and across to the Rainbow Bridge and the malls of Odaiba in the mid-distance.
This mingling of tradition and contemporary is reflected in the elaborate multi-course kaiseki meals served here. Alongside sashimi and other classic dishes — summer specialties include fragrant clear soup with conger pike and delicate sōmen noodles — there will be more Western accents, such as chilled soup of young sweet corn, or soba noodles topped with aromatic slivers of black truffle.
Head chef Masanobu Inaba admits to taking on board influences from another restaurant in the hotel, the Michelin one-starred China Blue. It all adds up to modern Japanese cuisine that looks every bit as beautiful as the setting.
Most of the year, dinners like this cost from ¥12,000. But during the upcoming Japan Restaurant Week promotion (July 18-Aug. 6; jrw.jp/index_en.html), it is being offered at the excellent introductory rate of ¥7,000 (plus service). Tables must be booked in advance.
28F Conrad Hotel, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-6388-8745 www.conradtokyo.co.jp/kazahana 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m. Nearest station: Shiodome No smoking Lunch from ¥3,800, dinner from ¥12,000 Major cards OK English menu; English spoken.
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