The road has thankfully just widened — and by that I mean it's more than 2 meters across — when we meet our first oncoming car.

I've been dreading this moment since we turned onto Route 445, a twisting "highway" that leads up into the mountains of Gokanosho in southern Kumamoto Prefecture. On an island not particularly known for its autumn colors, the Gokanosho region serves up some stunning foliage to Kyushu denizens. So impressive are the leaves that thousands flock here over a few weekends in late October and November, making the treacherous mountain lanes a serious test of one's driving skills. On a few select days in November, a brigade of citizen volunteers turns out to enforce a route of one-way roads, easing the congestion on the narrow byways. Unfortunately, we're here the day before the rules are enforced, and it's time to test my vehicular capabilities.

My traveling companion and I simultaneously draw in our breaths (my toddler is blessedly oblivious to our situation), as we ease our car as close to the road's edge as possible. On one side there is sheer rock face; on the other, a rusty guardrail is all that stands between us and a precipitous drop into the forested valley. I want to turn my head and admire the fiery maples on the next ridge over but not until I know the passing Toyota won't take off my side mirror as it slides by.