The February bankruptcy of Takeshi Osumi's seminal brand Phenomenon, and its departure from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo (FWT) before this season's March 17-23 shows, left a chasm apparent to all. And indeed, it's a mystery who may be able to fill the rather large shoes of the man who added such spice to the runway as wicker vests and medieval armor-inspired bomber jackets.
As it was, the majority of fellow streetwear brands this time around seemed content to continue the path of bold stark layers Phenomenon was known for — though they generally neglected to put on quite such memorable shows.
Bucking that trend with unexpected showmanship was cult brand Mikio Sakabe, whose creations drew gasps from a packed audience as a gaggle of boxer short-clad oiled models hit the runway in pink nightdresses, sakura petal-strewn overcoats and Japanese high school girl-inspired tailoring. It was a play on gender and fetishization of youth in Japanese society that may have bordered on the avant garde at times, but the number of men in attendance wearing Sakabe's head-to-toe pastel creations showed that his vision is taking hold.
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