How nice does a steaming-hot bowl of soup sound? Not a teacup-sized serving of clear broth or that shocking yellow shot of sodium otherwise known as corn potage, but a hearty, home-style soup that actually doubles as a meal (especially when paired with hearty, home-style bread).

A British friend who lived several years in Russia tipped me off to Rogovski (Tokyu Plaza 9F, 1-2-2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo; (03) 3463-3665; www.rogovski.co.jp) in Shibuya. One of the specialties at this Russian restaurant, in business since 1961, is borscht — that Eastern European soup made with a base of beef stock and tomatoes or beets. Rogovski's signature "country-style" borscht weighs in on the tomato side, with chunks of tender beef, potatoes and carrots, streaks of cabbage, cubes of beets and the all-important dollop of sour cream.

You can get it in a filling lunch set with two piroshki (fried buns stuffed with meat or vegetables), salad and "Russian tea" — black tea sweetened with a spoonful of jam. Even better, Rogovski sells its borscht to go, in cans or retort packs, along with dark bread, piroshkis and frozen pelmeni (Siberian dumplings). Rogovski also has a sister shop, Rogovski Komazawa Cafe (5-5-17 Komazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo; (03) 5706-5922) near Komazawa Park.