For the longest time, one of our most vociferous complaints about Tokyo was that there weren't enough wine bars worthy of the name. These days, thankfully, we are spoiled for choice in every price range. One of the best of the new crop we've discovered recently is Atelier d'I in Shirokane.

Open since March, it stands on the spot formerly occupied by Chez Tomo, a small neighborhood French restaurant that gained such a following (plus a Michelin star) that it became one of the hardest tables in the area to book. Since chef Tomoji Ichikawa decamped to ritzier pastures uptown — Chez Tomo now sits astride the top two floors of the sparkling new Pola Building in Ginza-Itchome — its erstwhile premises have reincarnated in a far more accessible form.

The look could hardly be more different. Out went the sleek, chic restaurant decor, crisp lighting and even crisper-dressed waiters. In came bistro-style furniture and a bar counter, with earth tones and wood throughout. One wall is clad entirely in rough-hewn timbers (Australian railroad ties, we were told); the other sports panels of warm brown leather. Though it's far from casual, the feel is intimate and comfortable.