Kaiseki ryōri, Japan's traditional multicourse "haute cuisine," is known for its rarefied elegance, its depth and subtlety of flavor, an exquisite focus on the seasons and, too often, for being as much fun as a funeral. But there is also another kind of kaiseki, one that's simpler, less formalized and far more approachable and affordable. That's the style you get at Suzunari.

Half the pleasure is just being there. You are in the heart of Arakicho, one of Tokyo's old-school entertainment areas, a little pocket of pleasure houses just west of Yotsuya that has managed — so far, fingers crossed — to avoid major redevelopment and retain its distinctive atmosphere.

A generation ago, this low-rise warren of alleys lined with eateries, bars and taverns was a much more tightly closed world. To penetrate beyond the noren curtains hiding those inscrutable doorways, you needed introductions or, at the very least, prior reservations. These days most places are a lot more welcoming and, it's safe to say, Arakicho is firmly on the map.