The great guide Michelin has again spoken, and lo! Tokyo has yet more stars in its firmament, and with even greater numbers anointed to the most exalted echelons. Further confirmation, should it be needed, that this is the foodiest city on the planet.

But the same can be said if you look lower down the pecking order. There is no letup in the stream of new restaurants bubbling up from Tokyo's fertile wellspring of culinary creativity. Of course, not all have lofty aspirations. For many, the aim is to provide fun dining rather than fine dining. Count La Gargote among that happy, humble crowd.

Though it only opened in late October, this hybrid bistro/grill/wine bar/Gallic gathering spot is already generating a buzz well beyond its immediate vicinity of Azabu Juban. That's not so surprising, given the pedigree of those involved. Owner Nelson Surjon is known to many from his tenure as manager of Le Petit Tonneau, the popular little bistro that overlooks Azabu Juban's peaceful square. And in charge of the kitchen is Patrick Chambiron, formerly executive chef of the Petit Tonneau group.