A few weeks ago a decadent dinner held at the American Club in Tokyo showcased some top-notch wines from two Australian family-owned wineries. Though the tablecloths were stiff and well starched, the staff — who served up some cracking fusion cuisine that brought out the best in the wine — were not, fostering a convivial and informal atmosphere.

A couple of affable Australians — Nathan Waks (right) of Kilikanoon winery and Brian Lynn of Majella — also circulated around the tables, answering questions about the wines on show.

I got a chance to sit down with the pair before the event and chat with them in detail about a range of subjects, from the breaking of Old World winemaking rules to the affinity between music and wine. Both men discussed their wines with the refreshing directness and lack of pretension for which Australians are renowned, but if you were to infer from their relaxed attitude that their wines lacked class or pedigree, you'd be way off beam.