Peace is hard to find, they say. Equally elusive in this mighty megalopolis are tranquil riverside dining spots with al fresco tables, sunset views and nary a building in sight or traffic noise to drown out the birdsong.

Hard, but by no means impossible: Peace — the mellow and aptly named cafe/restaurant of that name — awaits you on the city's furthest southwest border, out in Futako-Tamagawa.

Leaving behind the bland suburban malls by the station, a five-minute stroll brings you down to the sweeping, spacious banks of the Tama River and the massive bridges that span it. Follow the trail across a creek and suddenly you find yourself with trees on either side of you and nearby watercourses running through neatly trimmed swards of lawn.