When Kenji Ichishima, the sixth-generation head of Ichishima Shuzo in Niigata Prefecture, took over his family's sake brewery eight years ago at the age of 34, he immediately started making changes. First, he drastically reduced the number of products. Next, he revamped the brand to project a more artisanal image. Then, he did the unthinkable: He directed his master brewer to change the style of their sake. At first, some of his ideas met with resistance, but Ichishima says that everyone on his staff has come to see the wisdom of his decisions.
"It's only taken eight years," he says with a laugh.
For the first time in a long time, big changes are afoot in the sake world, as the next generation of brewery owners brings new ideas and youthful energy to the industry. In a field marked by tradition and long dominated by older men, radical change has not always been welcome. But as sake continues to lose 4-5 five percent of the domestic alcohol market share per year, the industry can't afford to sit back and do nothing.
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