When Shoko Davis first opened her Wine Cellar more than 10 years ago, it felt like the ultimate neighborhood restaurant. Not just because it ticked all the boxes in terms of food, drink and ambience, but also because it was so far off most people's radar.
Tucked away in Takanawa, a quiet district of temples and hotels, on a back street that doesn't even appear on most maps, and hidden from view until you're virtually stumbling across the threshold, it was one of those places that was too good to share. Those in the know preferred to keep it to themselves.
We too were happy to leave it that way, since Davis had all the right elements in place. The cooking was good and reliable, with inventive touches. Her wine list was well chosen, French and Italian but with plenty of New World bottles. And, above all, the setting was comfortable enough to relax in, but with sufficient style to make it worth heading across town.
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