The best holiday presents wrap themselves — in your arms, that is. The rest of your gift-list responsibilities, whether for Christmas, Kwanzaa, Hanukkah or Japanese oseibo (yearend gifts), can be taken care of near Asakusabashi Station. I'm usually way behind schedule getting presents together, but this year I'm worried about jumping the gun as I head off to southeast Taito Ward.

Well, ho, ho, ho, and no, I'm not too early after all. Nearly every store is already decked out in discount fairy lights and fake trees, wreaths, wrappings, ribbons and Santas. It's holiday commercialism gone mad, but there's a creative twist to things calculated to squelch your inner Scrooge. Also, the area is scattered with traditional Japanese shops selling dolls, fans, battledores and other handicrafts, so it's a goldmine for gifts.

Popping out of Asakusabashi Station and dashing left past the lottery booths (fuhgeddaboutit!), I quickly locate bright red signs in katakana heralding two of the famous Shimojima packaging-goods outlets. I spend all morning gawking at floors and floors of wholesale decorative bags, boxes, baubles, seals, gag gifts, foodstuffs and tools. Wall displays offer clever craft ideas and wrapping suggestions, and my cart is loaded by the time I hit the register, where I discover — great glue guns! — they only accept cash.