The simple truth has become a global cliche: It is hard to get a bad meal in Tokyo. Whether you're eating humble noodles or a rarefied kaiseki banquet, it's likely to be more than just satisfactory — there's a good chance it will be prepared with flavor and flair.

That said, it still remains frustratingly difficult to access high-level Japanese cuisine. Many of the finest chefs work in tiny premises, well away from the mainstream and the glare of publicity. You may see a sliding door with a nameplate in kanji script. You know there's great food inside. But without an introduction or reservation (not to mention a knowledge of Japanese), how do you venture past that inscrutable noren curtain?

Thank goodness at least there is Maru, a stylish basement restaurant of no little quality just a short walk from Omotesando. Besides serving excellent modern takes on traditional cuisine, it is relaxed and absolutely accessible. Best of all, the serving staff are perfectly accommodating for those who speak little or no Japanese.