Who says there's no going back? Just the other day we found ourselves drawn to one of our all-time favorites, the excellent little Sasano between Nogizaka and Roppongi. It's been five years since our last visit, but thankfully it's every bit as good as we'd remembered.

News photo
Sashimi can't get much fresher: it's pulled straight from the tanks behind Sasano's counter. © ROBBIE SWINNERTON

Too sleek to be called an izakaya, too laid back to be a full-fledged ryoriya (traditional restaurant), this is a place that pushes all the right buttons for us: cool but uncomplicated decor; a vibe that's informal but never casual; and, best of all, great food to match the extensive cellar of sake and shochu.