Kushiage (skewers of breaded and deep-fried seafood, meat and vegetables) is a popular specialty of the Osaka region, and the typical kushiage joint usually involves old-fashioned wooden counters, multiple rounds of beer and a smoky, after-work izakaya vibe. So A, a stylish little restaurant in Osaka's skyscraper district of Umeda, was a pleasant surprise.

Far from the usual grotty atmosphere, the feeling here is hip and contemporary, with smartly dressed young staff and music you might actually listen to at home — mostly R&B and jazz. The decor is engagingly exotic, with Indian-looking relief carvings and latticework, terra-cotta-colored walls, dark-gray concrete floors and accents of bamboo and rattan. Best of all, the food is excellent, with a well-chosen drinks list to match.

Because kushiage is so simple, the quality of the ingredients is essential. This is one area where this oddly named eatery (it's pronounced "ah") stands out. Next to the dining room is a separate sushi bar, so sushi-quality fish and shellfish are the norm in the kushiage served. Some highlights were the plump shrimp wrapped in shiso (beefsteak plant) leaf; kisu (sillago fish); prawns; and wonderfully juicy kaibashira (scallop valves) that delivered a burst of flavorful hot liquid on biting through the crisp shell of breading around them.