The ocean sparkles; the beach beckons; a breeze stirs the appetite. And the Shonan coast — an hour or so south of Tokyo by train — looks mighty appealing, especially the secluded inlets down the peninsula in genteel Hayama. That's where you'll find the Food File.

There's much to love here: the craggy rocks and old-fashioned beach huts at Morito; the wild, jutting cape at Chojagasaki; and that magical crescent of beach at Isshiki, overlooked by the hills and the garden of the Imperial Villa. They all exude that sense of being far from the city. Best of all, once the sun sets, there are a growing number of good new restaurants close at hand — and none better than Piscaria.

It's a small place, a few minutes stroll from the north end of Morito Beach, occupying the ground floor of a handsome, wood-clad two-story house. Owner-chef Takuitsu Izumo had it custom-built when he moved here from Tokyo years ago, and you can tell as soon as you walk through the tall timber doors that this is much more than just another generic pasta joint.