Hopping on the train at Tokyo Station after the morning rush hour still gets you to south Izu for lunch. So, with a promise of stunning views of the sea and more fresh fish sashimi than you could throw a wasabi tube at, we relaxed on the Super View "Odoriko" train to Izukyu Shimoda Station — later than planned but not unduly concerned. Stepping off the train to feel the city dust swept away by the breezy scenery of the Pacific Ocean, we picked up our rented car and drove to the southernmost tip of Izu Peninsula, Irozaki.

The craggy cape is known for its beautiful stretch of sea, scattered with huge, dramatic rocks, among which tourist ferries weave. As we found out, these are less ferries than barges.

The waves that rushed in from the Pacific and bounced off the rocks seemed to thrill those clutching onto the rails of the boat, but we couldn't help but fear that the overexcited child passengers may actually fly overboard. The kids were clutching paper bags full of sweet potato, apparently bought before boarding, the reason for which became clear when the boat neared a mammoth rock in the middle of the sea, shuddered to a near halt, and the youngsters started yelling and throwing their sweet potato chunks at it. From the deep crevices in the rock appeared a pack of monkeys, who gobbled up the grub with varying degrees of enthusiasm.