We are always on the prowl for good dim sum. We also keep our ears pinned back for reports of fine Chinese cooking in that elusive middle ground that is neither fancy nor funky. So, on hearing enthusiastic reports of a good Hong Kong-style restaurant offering both, it didn't take us long to investigate.

Lohotoi -- literally "Old Ravenous Table" -- opened a year ago on the main shopping street of Shirokane (the Ebisu address is just a quirk of the map). Apart from a red awning and glinting gold characters on the signboard, there is little to catch your eye. The entrance is unprepossessing, the ground-floor room functional but little more than a passage, and even the main dining area upstairs boasts only minimal decor. This is as it should be. Here, it's all about the eating.

Dim sum, of course, is snack food, more apt for the middle of the day rather than dinnertime. But on weekdays Lohotoi is too busy preparing simple set lunches, and only offers a limited selection. So, intent on sampling the full range, we took advantage of the recent holiday weekend and settled in for a leisurely late brunch.