Wine with Japanese cuisine? We've never been convinced. In theory, all that seafood should find the perfect match with a crisp Chablis, Condrieu or unoaked Chardonnay. But when sip comes to gulp, we'll always prefer a ginjo or yamahai sake to accompany our sashimi, sukiyaki or tempura.

There is, however, one notable exception to this rule: the style of cooking known as sumiyaki. In our book, anything that's been slowly grilled over charcoal -- and as long as it's not slathered in a thick, savory, soy-based tare sauce -- goes beautifully with wine. And if the kitchen is using fine ingredients and premium charcoal, especially the variety known as bincho, then it's worth uncorking a bottle that means business.

And so it was we found ourselves at Les Vinum. Yes, the name is strange (to European ears, at least) and rather stuffy-sounding. But this is not one of those exclusive Nishi-Azabu joints populated by wine snobs and cork dorks. It's a smart little place with a young crew that manages to hit just the right balance between style and substance, casual and chic, enjoyment and outlay.