It was one of those evenings that called for -- nay, stridently demanded -- a special celebration. Not a quiet, intimate table a deux; nor some sober parade of rarified gourmet delicacies; but a full-on, self-indulgent feast in a setting to match. It was time for dinner at Olives.

It's fitting that the Tokyo outpost of U.S. uber-chef Todd English's expansive restaurant empire should be housed within the larger-than-life portals of Roppongi Hills. The entrance, however, is surprisingly modest, tucked away down an unmarked corridor and accessed through a narrow, cluttered bar area. But that only heightens the effect as you step into the restaurant proper and take in the sweep of the picture windows, with the glowing outline of Tokyo Tower framed in the mid-distance.

This theatrical setting of near-Imax dimensions is perfect for a chef who isn't shy to make a bold statement. English draws on Italian fundamentals to produce full-blown, pull-no-punches, modern American cuisine, which is produced here with verve by chef de cuisine Bobby Griffing. We loved his beef carpaccio, paper-thin slices of wagyu draped over cubes of crisp, deep-fried polenta richly flavored with Roquefort, daubed with aioli and sprinkled with Parmesan. The pan-seared squid and octopus, served with a chickpea salad and an inspired "hummus" of black bean and sesame, was every bit as successful.