In matters of war, history is most often recounted from the perspective of the conqueror and rarely, if ever, passed down from the point of view of the defeated. So it's not surprising that the historical significance of the remnants of 16th-century Hachioji Castle on western Tokyo's Mount Fukazawa -- more commonly known to locals as Shiroyama (castle mountain) -- has been largely neglected for over 400 years.
Even as a tourist spot, Shiroyama, which is a short bus ride from JR Takao Station, has mostly been overshadowed by the huge popularity of nearby Mount Takao. But, as a simple one-day trek through the mountain's forest trails and ancient ruins reveals, it is precisely this anonymity that is its greatest asset. From the wreckage of the castle to the numerous waterfalls that dot the mountain's lush, stream-filled forests, you can find perfect solitude as well as a few surprises, for both the history buff and the nature lover -- and it's only an hour's train ride from central Tokyo.
Hachioji Castle was constructed in the late 1570s by the feudal warlord Hojo Ujiteru, one of Japan's last independent warlords. Ujiteru, who ruled a vast portion of the western Kanto area from present-day Saitama Prefecture to Yokohama, built his stronghold in the depths of Shiroyama's forests in a desperate attempt to escape the mighty forces of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who was on the verge of reunifying the nation. Ujiteru, of the powerful Hojo clan based in Odawara (currently Odawara City in Kanagawa Prefecture), was one of his final foes.
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